LED Resistor Calculator
Free LED resistor calculator — exact and standard (E24) resistor values for any LED circuit, with power rating and live circuit diagram.
Free LED resistor calculator — exact and standard (E24) resistor values for any LED circuit, with power rating and live circuit diagram.
Find the resistor an LED needs for a given supply and target current.
Show a concrete application where getting the maths wrong destroys the component.
Work out whether your supply can drive several LEDs on one resistor.
Confirm the resistor won't overheat before soldering it in.
A panel LED that dazzles usually just needs a larger resistor. Pick the current you actually want and the value falls out.
The same LED needs a different resistor on 5 V, 9 V or 12 V. Reusing the old value is how LEDs get cooked when a project changes power source.
Because an LED is a diode, not a resistor — above its forward voltage the current rises almost vertically for tiny increases in voltage. Connected straight across a supply it draws whatever current the supply can deliver and destroys itself, often within seconds. The resistor sets the current, which is what actually determines brightness and lifespan.
Subtract the LED's forward voltage from the supply, then divide by the desired current: R = (Vs − Vf) ÷ I. A red LED at 2 V drawing 20 mA from a 5 V supply needs (5 − 2) ÷ 0.02 = 150 Ω. Then pick the next standard value upward — 150 Ω exists in E24, but where the exact figure is not a stock value, going up slightly runs the LED a little below target, which is safe.
It varies by colour because it depends on the semiconductor bandgap. Red is around 1.8–2.2 V, yellow and amber similar, while green, blue and white are typically 3.0–3.4 V. This matters: a white LED needs over 3 V before it conducts at all, so it will not light from a 3 V coin cell in the way a red one will. Use the datasheet figure where you have it.
In series, yes — add their forward voltages and use one resistor, provided the supply exceeds the total. In parallel, no. LEDs have slight manufacturing variation, so the one with the lowest forward voltage takes most of the current, runs hottest, drops further and takes even more — a runaway that ends with one dead LED and the others dim. Parallel strings each need their own resistor.
Multiply the voltage across the resistor by the current through it. In the 150 Ω example, 3 V × 0.02 A = 60 mW, comfortably within a standard quarter-watt part. High-current LEDs or large supply-to-forward-voltage gaps change this: driving 100 mA from 12 V through a 2 V LED dissipates a full watt in the resistor, which needs a physically larger component and gets genuinely hot.
Not really. For anything above roughly 100 mA, a resistor wastes significant power as heat and lets brightness drift as the supply voltage or LED temperature changes. Constant-current drivers regulate the current directly, are far more efficient, and keep brightness stable. Resistors remain the right answer for indicators and small signal LEDs, which is most hobby and classroom use.